Eric Kayser's Matcha Tart

I found the tart on the cover of Eric Kayser's Sweet and Savoury Tarts completely seductive in her brazen pairing of flamingly red fruit and matcha. But looks aside, I've been eager to dive into this newly translated edition of a title from the Parisian master baker, whose recipes (as shared in Dorie Greenspan's Paris Sweets) are always straightforward yet elegant in their simplicity (for instance, these Galettes à l’Orange or Fondants aux Pommes or Tigrés).

Seeing as Eric Kayser has at least as many doors in Japan as he does in France, the choice of cover tart seems fitting. Nonetheless, most of the recipes in the book are very French, and my copy now resides happily next to another very French title on the art of the tart, Christine Ferber's Mes Tartes.

It's not a conventional tart in the crust-and-filling sense. A rich and buttery financier-like batter (made with egg whites, confectioner's sugar, ground almonds, flour and beurre noisette, and flavoured with matcha) stands in more than admirably for the tart base.

Cake-like in texture with a moist and closely knit crumb, this base is crowned with red currant jelly and red currants (I used raspberry preserves and raspberries instead). More importantly, it's one of those effortless recipes requiring labour no more arduous than some unhurried stirring - a real keeper in the repertoire that I just know will come in handy some day when I need to dish out a good and good-looking dessert pronto.

A few minor changes, apart from the fruit substitution as red currants are virtually impossible to find in this neck of the woods (for the original recipe, pick up a copy of the wonderful book). I was sipping one of my favourite Mariage Frères teas, Thé des Impressionnistes, when perusing the book so quite naturally was thinking about how much I enjoy the way vanilla lends depth to the lovely floral green tea blend. So I added a split vanilla bean to the caramelising butter, which also bolsters the nuanced vanilla-ey flavour already associated with browned butter thanks to Maillard reactions. And I've added a very tiny pinch of salt, which as a salt fiend I almost automatically add to any baked goods recipe which omits it in the conviction it goes a long way in heightening all other flavours.

My rectangular tart tin was not the specified dimensions (20 x 30cm) but I didn't want to use the suggested alternative (26cm round), so I had a bit of leftover batter. But this kept, like all financier batters do, really well overnight in the fridge and I was able to enjoy warm, freshly baked little matcha friands (topped with bits of candied orange peel, pine nuts and black sesame) this morning for breakfast, which reminded me very much of the sort of treats you're likely to find nestled in a chic Sadaharu Aoki boîte.

I've given the full quantities of the recipe, seeing as you may have the right-sized tin or may want extra batter for making minis - financier, madeleine, barquette, tartlet and mini muffin/cupcake pans would all work, simply adjust baking time accordingly (takes anywhere from 7 to 15 minutes depending on how dimunitive your miniature tins are).

Matcha & Vanilla Tart with Raspberries
Adapted from Eric Kayser's Sweet and Savoury Tarts

Makes one 20 x 30cm rectangular tart or 26cm round tart

300 gm unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the tart tin
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out
10 egg whites
300 gm confectioner's sugar, sifted
130 gm ground almonds
1/4 tsp fine salt
2 tsp matcha, plus a little more for dusting
130 gm plain all-purpose flour, sifted
375 gm raspberries
2 Tbsp sieved raspberry preserves (or seedless raspberry jam)

Preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F). Grease your chosen tart tin with softened unsalted butter, making sure to reach every crevice especially if the edges of your tin are fluted. (If your tin is smaller than the recommended size, as mine is, not to worry - adjust your baking time accordingly and use the leftover batter to make minis.) Place the tart tin on a baking sheet and set aside.

In a saucepan, melt the 300 gm of unsalted butter. Toss in the split vanilla bean and the seeds which have been scraped out. Make beurre noisette but be careful not to burn it - let the butter cook and caramelise slowly until it turns nut brown in colour and smells like toasted hazelnuts. Remove immediately from the heat and scrape all the vanilla-infused butter into a jug, including all the flavour-laden brown bits which have settled onto the bottom of the saucepan. Discard the split vanilla bean.

In a mixing bowl, whisk the egg whites with the confectioner's sugar until well blended.

Add the ground almonds, salt and matcha. Mix until evenly blended. Add the flour, gently whisking until incorporated.

Add the liquid butter (which should be added whilst warm) in a very gradual stream while whisking constantly so it properly emulsifies with the batter.

Pour the batter into the tart tin till about three-quarters full. Do not over-fill as allowance should be given for the batter's slight rise in the oven. (Leftover batter, if any, keeps well overnight in the fridge and makes for tasty teatime treats you can bake up in a jiffy.) Bake with the tart tin on the baking sheet (which helps catch any drips or spills) for about 30 minutes. Less if your tart tin is smaller than that specified - start checking at the 20 minute mark; a skewer inserted into the centre should emerge clean when it is done and the edges will be tinged golden brown and will have shrunk ever so slightly away from the sides of the tart tin.

When done, remove from the oven and set aside to cool on a wire rack.

Liquefy the sieved raspberry preserves or seedless raspberry jam in a small saucepan over low heat. Spread evenly over the cooled matcha tart. Arrange raspberries on top. Dust sparingly with matcha.